Mount Vesuvius

The last time we were on a volcano, Mount Etna, it erupted. No way it happens twice...right? It was a bit unnerving to think that Sicily's Mount Etna was erupting, and another island, Stromboli, which is in between Sicily and Naples, was also currently erupting. Was it making its where here? The chances seemed low, and we were not about to miss exploring this volcano that has had such an impact on the history, the food, and the people of this area.

We took the train to Pompeii, where we caught a small local bus to Vesuvius. It seemed like the perfect place to catch the bus, due to the tragic history between the two. Strangely, Pompeii has a peaceful feel to it now, even with the incredible devastation that happened here. There have been 8 major eruptions in the last 400 years, the last being in 1944. After that eruption, the trail of smoke and steam disappeared. As the saying goes, it's usually the quiet ones that are the most dangerous.

The studies that have been conducted here show that the volcano is basically "corked", and instead of relieving pressure though steam and small lava flows, it is building up pressure. Ancient records and drawings from the last 1000 years have shown that Vesuvius has been rebuilding itself, and has almost completely refilled the massive crater from 79 AD. Many scientists believe it will erupt again, with a similar force as the infamous eruption that wiped out Pompeii. It is constantly monitored for any seismic activity by these devices all over the mountain and valleys below. So, you better get here soon if you want to see it for yourself!

The bus delivered us to the base camp, which is about a 1/2 hour hike to the mouth of the crater where we would be sacrificed to the Volcano Gods, ah, where we would be able to hike halfway around the crater. The hike up the dusty trail is made a little easier with the hand carved hiking sticks, provided by an old Italian gentleman at the trail head. It's free, and you give him a tip when you return it on your way out. It's makes a huge difference, so we were sure glad we grabbed one on the way through. We were trying to figure out how to keep one as a souvenir, but sticks with pointy ends do not make good carry-ons, airport security frowns upon them.

The crater is massive. It's difficult to describe, and pictures just do not do it justice. It's like trying to describe the Grand Canyon by words or photos, it just does not work, you just have to stand in front of it yourself. To put it in "American" terms, it's over 2 football fields deep, and over 6 football fields wide! It really gives persprctive when we look across and see people walking the edge, and they look like ants.

The soil is a dark reddish-brown, packed full of minerals from the previous eruptions. About halfway down the slope the lava rocks and dirt start to give way to the dark green vegetation that takes advantage of the most fertile farmland in the world. We gave thanks to Vesuvius for providing the soil that gives this area some of the best tasting produce in the world. We thought about filling up our pockets for the home garden!

From the edge of the crater, the views are breathtaking. We actually were being passed by one of the guides, and he said to us "Enjoy this view, in 10 years, I have never seen it this clear!". We certainly did. We could look north towards Naples, west at the Bay of Naples and Capri in the distance, and Sorrento to the southwest. But what is really interesting is the view directly south, where we had a direct view of Pompeii.

As you focus on what is now a tiny area of ruins, you quickly start to realize that the entire valley is now populated with towns and villages. In fact, the area in between Vesuvius and the ocean is heavily populated as well, and the 1.2 million people of Naples are just as close to the north. We pray that Vesuvius will offer sufficient warning, as it did in 62 AD with a massive earthquake, prior to the eruption in 79 AD.

In the previous blog, we have described the effect that the majestic Mount Vesuvius has had on the people of the Naples area. There is little fear, and great respect for the potential. We think it would be nearly impossible to talk someone into leaving the Naples area who has grown up here. They accept it as fate, and go on living a passionate life in one of the most spirited places on the planet. It's like when you live in a city, and move to the country. You cursed the city's noise when you lived there, but now miss it and can't sleep without the noise. We think that Neapolitans would miss the energy of Vesuvius, and ironically could not live without it.