Island of Capri

"Bella!" is what the Italians say when you tell them you are headed to the Island of Capri. They also add a finger-tips-to-the-lips kiss, to add a little extra passion. After today, we know why. It really is one of the most beautiful places that you could ever see.

If you pronounce it like we have always done, ca-PRI, you get a look from the locals like they are not sure what you are telling them. Seconds later, they recognize our accents (that we don't think we have), and exclaim "CA-pri! Bella!", finger tip kiss salute included.

The cruise is about 30 minutes from Sorrento to the port on Capri, the water is calm and the weather is perfect. We were amazed at the height of the island, and how sharply it jets from the ocean. Most of the coast of the island is sheer cliff, making for a very dramatic approach, and we were sure that there would be incredible views from the top as we anxiously awaited to dock.

The port is packed with shops, restaurants and tour guides ready to separate you from your euros. Capri is one of the most expensive places in the world, and rightfully so. This is probably a good thing, because if it were inexpensive it would be impossible to even get on the island - everyone would live here.

As we docked, we could see another much larger ferry boat approaching, so we knew we would have to move quickly to take advantage of the famed Blue Grotto tour. We had been told that you have to get out to the Grotto as early as you can, or risk the chance of not being able to see it at all. The afternoon sea becomes a little rougher than the morning, and the slightest bit of waves could block the opening to the cave.

Our 007 Bond-like ferry-to-small-boat transfer was literally less than 30 seconds. We walked up to the counter, paid, were told to jump on a boat with about 10 others already onboard. The captain hit the throttle before we even sat down! We guess he also saw the much larger ferry boat approaching and knew we better get in front of the pack.

The Blue Grotto deserves it's own blog and photo, so see next entry for details - it's amazing. After we left the Blue Grotto, our captain gave us a complete tour around the island. There is a Green Grotto, but much less dramatic than the Blue since it is not a complete cave. The cliff above overhangs the water enough to create a shade that illuminates the water, giving it the emerald glow. Another beautiful accent is the dark red coral pieces, about the size of dimes, that cling to the cliff walls right at the water's edge.

On the south side of the island are huge rock outcroppings, one of which has a natural tunnel you can cruise right through on the boat.

We made it back to the port, had some pizza for lunch (what else?), and headed by bus to the small town on the highest point of the island, Anacapri. Anacapri is a shopping mecca for the rich and famous, with high end shops like Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, and Gucci lining the quint streets. Since we did not buy anything (the sale rack at Banana Republic is about as high as we go), we chose to walk down the very narrow street, basically cut into the side of the cliff, to the town of Capri.

This treacherous road is wide enough for maybe one car, or 2 Vespas, so it was crazy to see 2 mini buses squeeze by barely slowing down. What made it more insane was the 400 foot cliff on one side of the road. Many times we had to sit up on the wall to give 2 cars the room to pass, trying very hard not to look down on the sparkling blue-green water hundreds of feet below. When there were no cars, you could step back and see the most incredible view you have ever seen - it made the car/bus/scooter dodging all worth it.

Once you reach the town of Capri, the largest on the island, there is a funicular you can ride back down to the port - seemed like a good way to go after the last few miles. As we sailed away, we looked back at the island and were thankful for such a wonderful day, and the views that will never fade in our minds. And no matter how you pronounce it, ca-PRI or CA-pri, there is no confusion; it is truly bella and deserves the finger-tip-kiss salute!