Calatrasi Winery

Here's an offer we couldn't refuse: a personal invitation from a wine maker to his vineyard and winery!

We were having a glass of wine at the hotel bar and met Christian Reintjes. After a long conversation, and multiple glasses of vino, he could tell we were experts in the field of consumption but knew very little about the art of making the wine. He had a group of the top distributors from Northern Europe in Sicily as his guests to tour the winery so they could see the production of what they were selling. If you know Becky, it was not long before we had our invitation to join the fun.

The cab ride to San Cipirello was an adventure itself. One thing that we learned about Sicilians is that everyone thinks they know where everything is! When you have been standing on the corner with your friends for the last 50 years, and have never left Sicily, we don't think they dare say that the don't know where something is. There was a lot of pointing, shouting, "air" maps being drawn - they looked like conductors at the Palermo Symphony. What should have been a 45 minute ride turned out to be about an hour and a half, but how can a ride through the Sicilian countryside be bad?!

We arrived at the winery late, but the other thing we have learned about Sicilians is that there are no true clocks, and no one is too busy for people. Funny thing, when you take TV out of the lineup, there is plenty of time for family and friends, new and old alike. Christian made sure the group had plenty to drink (not hard to do when there is a warehouse of vino beside you), and we got a behind-the-scenes tour that was amazing.

We learned all about the process, and were blown away by the sights and scents of the winery. The grapes are grown on a hillside in...where else....Corleone! We saw where the grapes arrive from the trucks, the crushing process and the fermentation tanks. We learned that the best wines come from a "no pushing" process, meaning the wine flows through the tanks without any pressure which can include the bitter flavor from the grape skins. Wines produced with "no push - all gravity" are better tasting thus more expensive. We are pretty sure some of the wines we have been drinking at home have been pushed by a bulldozer.

One highlight of the tour was the warehouse where the oak barrels age the wine. The lights would not go on, which really made you focus on the smell. The oak was a combination of different oaks from all over the world, mostly Europe, but also including the U.S. and Africa. This is a technique that helps give each winery their own unique wines. We took a photo into the darkness and this is what we saw:

Dinner was explained to us as "simple Sicilian peasant" food. We decided we wanted to be Sicilian peasants. Eggplant (melanzana) was served as a cold salad, which was prepared with olive oil (of course), balsamic vinegar, sugar, olives, and onions - unbelievably good. The 2nd course was a hot melanzana prepared with pomodoro and formaggio (red sauce and cheese). It just kept getting better. Next, homemade sausage and pork fried in olive oil. The main course was veal in breadcrumbs, thinly sliced and lightly fried in, what else, olive oil! Dessert was a cannoli-like cookie with a sweet goat cheese instead of the ricotta - drooling yet? It was soooo good. We also had some incredible wines of course, from champagne to dessert wine and everything in between. This was followed by an espresso just to keep our eyes open. This photo is of the dining room as we were leaving (fat and happy).


Conversation at the table that night was priceless, with mostly German and French as the modes of communication. Becky impressed with a few German phrases, "wunderbar!" (wonderful!) being a big hit. Steve had a "tres bien!" (very well done!) for the folks from France, which got the crowd fired up!

It turned out that Christian and his family had visited a friend in Boston a few years ago and made it to Fenway Park! The great part of the story was that David Ortiz threw a ball to his 12 year daughter - leave it to Big Papi to not only break an 86 year old curse, but also to be an international ambassador.

They squeezed us into their shuttle van on the ride back to Palermo. We should have known they were just getting started. Christian gave us the "Palermo by Night" tour, stopping at some of the wonderful monuments and a fantastic wine bar. There were some great stories told by a group of people that live life very differently from us, and somehow surprisingly similar at the same time. We ended up getting a few "personal tour guide" offers from a few members of the group when we visit their northern European cities - another offer that will be difficult to refuse!

Palermo Sites - Mondello Beach

This is where the people of Palermo go for the weekend, and we can not even imagine what it looks like in the heat of summer.


The cars and scooters were everywhere, with miles of white sand beach to stroll along while gazing at the blue-green water.

Mondello Beach lies at the foot of beautiful Mount Pellegrino, which we have drank our share of water from. In Italian, the carbonated water is known as "acqua fizzante". It travels a long way to make it to our fridge, so we now have a whole new perspective.

Mondello used to be an old fishing village, but in the last century it has become a residential area compared to South Beach, Miami. We found ourselves trying to figure out, if we sold everything we owned and liquidated the 401Ks, could we buy one of these mansions on the beach? Probably not by the looks of the yachts floating just off shore!

Palermo Sites - Monreale Cathedral

This is one of the examples of the Arab-Norman architecture, at the top of a mountain overlooking Palermo and the sea beyond. There is a peaceful garden, with 228 double support columns decorated with incredible mosaic tiles depicting scenes in history.

On the inside, there are mosaics made from pure gold reflecting stories from the Bible. We were there at sunset, and the sun was shining through a window illuminating these incredible works of art. We are sure they have been mesmerizing people since 1172.


We entered just as Mass began, which was a real experience to hear in Latin and Italian.

We ate the best lemon gelato at a sidewalk cafe in the square outside the Cathedral. There were multiple Sicilian generations at play in the piazza, from the kids yelling "Andiamo!" ("Let's go!") to the older gentlemen standing on the street corner reflecting on what seemed to be a wonderful way to live life.

Palermo Sites - Cripta dei Cappuccini

The Cripta dei Cappuccini are the catacombs of the well to do citizens of Palermo. Instead of being buried, people were mummified and their bodies were put in these underground chambers from the 1500s through the 1920s. They are wearing their best clothes, pin strip suits and beautiful dresses, some of which are moth-eaten. Many are skeletons, but some are so well embalmed that they look like they are sleeping - creepy!

Palermo Sites - Fontana Pretoria

Fontana Pretoria was constructed in 1552. It has multiple larger than life statues of mythological figures throughout the fountain.


Because of the nude statues, it was known as the "Fountain of Shame". It was originally for a home in Florence if you can imagine this in your backyard.

Palermo

Palermo has an ancient feel to it - most of the buildings are very old and well maintained, and there are few modern buildings. It is densely populated, with a few green parks to be stumbled upon and strolled through (another New York similarity).

We stayed right in the center of the city, just south of Teatro (Theater) Massimo and two blocks north of the ocean. In "Godfather III" this was where the scene was shot where Micheal Corleone sat on the stairs and cried after he learned of his daughter's death.


The neighborhood was a wonderful collection of restaurants, bars and markets where we spent the majority of our time.

You can still see the traces of Arab, Greek and Roman rule throughout the city in it's many beautiful cathedrals, medieval and civic buildings, and ancient ruins.
Each red light is like the start of the Indianapolis 500. The scooters always have pole position and dominate the start with a roar. There was one guy sitting crossed-legged, on his cell phone, smoking, helmet not strapped, ripping by at about 40 mph - something straight out of a circus! Probably not his first time on a Vespa.

The weather has been perfect - warm sun and cool ocean breeze - perfect for sipping cappuccinos, eating paninis for lunch and looking for that perfect plate of pasta for dinner. Two of Sicily's staple items are artichokes and eggplant, which are done to perfection here. Needless to say, if we do not keep up the 20 miles per day on foot, we are in big trouble!

Sicily

The flight arriving into Palermo (via Roma) was spectacular - huge mountains right to the edge of the blue-green ocean. In between the mountains are cities and fishing villages nestled at the shore's edge. So beautiful, or "bella!" as the Italians would say.

It's 45 minutes by train from the airport to Palermo Centrale Stazione, a central station that can easily rival Grand Central Station. This was just the first of many New York similarities. This is also the main bus terminal. Below is the view looking across the street from the station. It was quite an adventure from there, figuring out the bus to the hotel.


We quickly realized that Palermo is not a popular destination for English speaking travelers, as the signs were take-it-or-leave-it Italian. Our first interaction with a Sicilian was great; he sold us our bus tickets, stepped into the street to stop the bus for us, and instructed the driver to tell us when to get off at our stop. Who needs signs when you have people like this!

Sicily is the largest region in Italy, 9,900 square miles and has more than 5 million people. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and its history can be traced back over 2,500 years. Its central location has made it the most sought after island of all of the ancient empires, and many have left their touch on the culture here. The Sicialians and Greeks both claim that the best Greek temple ruins are located here, and not in Greece. We can not wait to do our own comparison!

Santorini and Volcano Islands

This has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth. A 4-hour highspeed ferry ride from Athens, Santorini Island is a collection of quaint little villages set on the top of 1,000-foot cliffs.

Santorini harbor is dominated by Volcano Island, which last erupted in 1950, basically minutes ago in the big picture of the universe. The locals claim to have the best sunsets in the world, which is hard to argue.


We went for one night, but ended up staying for two nights once we found out that you could hike on the volcano, feel the steam coming up though the ground and smell the sulfur. Scary to think that it's impossible to know when an "inactive" volcano will become "active" - we had a few freak-outs when a small burst of steam would rise from the crater! To walk along the lava flows and across Volcano Island is as close as we are going to get to walking on Mars - truly unbelievable.

We left the bathing suits in Athens since it seemed like it would be too cold to swim. But, little did we know, volcanoes create hot springs! 40 Euros later, we had two more bathing suits we did not need, but we were ready. Here's the catch: the boat stops 80 meters from the hot springs, which means you have to swim through 15 degree Celsius water to get there. We really did not know if 80 meters was far and 15 degree Celsius water was cold, but it sure sounded as if. Steve jumped from the boat, and got back on just about as fast as he entered the water, which was all the conversion we needed!

Day 2 we rented a Smart Car. These make the VW Bug look huge! We drove to Red Sand Beach and Black Sand Beach - they came just as advertised - beautiful.


The food we've eaten on the Island and back in Athens has been awesome! The gyros and tziki here put our Americanized Greek restaurants to shame. We had crepes smothered in dark chocolate - phenomenal!


The people (and cats and dogs) of Santorini Island were as nice as those found in Athens. To everyone we met in Greece, "efharisto!" which is "thank you". It's one of the two words we learned (the other being "yasus" which means "hello") and we could not say it any better!

Greek Culture Snipits

Every pre-conceived notion that we had about Greece was completely wrong. We originally thought it was going to be the most foreign land to us, but we were way off. Everyone was so incredibly nice, welcoming and so proud of their country.

Tourism keeps their economy going, so they want visitors to enjoy! Most everyone (50 and younger) speaks English, which has made it easy for us. We stayed in the Plaka neighborhood which is in the shadow of the Acropolis - very safe - so if you are ever going to Greece stay in a cheap hotel here.
They are very proud of their heritage and many have reminded us in conversation that certain words we are speaking in English were derived from Greece (have you seen "My Big Fat Greek Wedding"?). Did you know "Phoenix" is a Greek word? We were told frequently!

Most of the men we have met are named either George or Nikolas. Last names, just mumble the first part and end in "opoulis" and you'll be close.

People are well educated, especially on what is going on in the world. They don't have a problem with Americans, but disagree with our government. They could not understand why not 100% of the people were not voting (Greece, 85% vote). "You are voting for the most powerful influence in the world and some do not vote? I do not understand." Very eye opening.

We are amazed that when it's 70 degrees outside that people are wearing wool blazers, pants and scarves. I guess they are cold wimps like those of us from AZ.
The most important fashion statement here are shoes. People don't look at your hair, clothes, or accessories. They stare down at your feet. Dark clothes, a collar and a pair of Pumas during the day, funky leather shoes at night and you'll fit right in.

Stray dogs and cats everywhere. They are as friendly as the people. Greeks have a respect for the animals and treat them well, so even a one eyed cat loved Steve playing with him.

Everyone walks, which leads to flea markets, street cafes, churches, parks, tavernas, etc. Life is lived outside. We mentioned to a gentleman something about TV and he said, "We do not watch". Again, eye opening. We figured this out from the five fuzzy hotel room channels - it was good for Steve not to have a remote in his hand. He still somehow always knows what the Sox are doing. Our hearts go out the the families of Virginia Tech - live and love every day.
A few notes from our new friends in Athens - it's not easy to find a job, you usually keep the one you have. The average salary is under $30,000. Usually both husband and wife work, and many times one of the two work two jobs. Housing is expensive - $200,000 for a 330 square foot living area! That makes for a bad "debt-to-income" ratio according to Steve.

Off to Santorini Island, where an active volcano lies just off shore!

Glyfada Beach

Today we rode the tram down to the coastal town of Glyfada and enjoyed the sun, beach, people and warm weather.


While sunbathing we created this little pirate, "Captain Jack Gravel"!


Steve enjoyed the Ferraris and Lamborghinis. We ate at "No Name" Cafe, where the owners of those cars were sure to be eating - very chic.



Tomorrow we are off to Santorini Island - 4 hours by boat. Everyone we have spoken to in Athens says it's the best - most beautiful sunsets, over a volcano. Can't wait!

The Temple of Olympian Zeus is the largest temple in Greece, completed over a short 700 years from 590 BC to AD 131. Over the next 2,000 years, this is what remains of the original 104 columns. Just 15 remain standing, so you better book your flight to Greece in the next 500 years or you may not be able to see them! They are absolutely huge, incredible to think of the engineering of this ancient wonder. The original plans called for a temple twice its size, but it was abandon due to a lack of funds (not much has changed between then and now with funding issues!).

Athens - Day 2 and 3?

We can not get on a set sleeping schedule. We have no idea what day it is. Random naps followed by nights of sleep anywhere from three to five hours. Meals at 4 am. Small price to pay for exploring the birthplace of civilization.

The Acropolis was breathtaking - 2,500 years old. Attacked multiple times, earthquakes and the test of time and it's still magnificent. The Acropolis is the entire site, and the Parthenon is the unbelievably huge structure crowning the site. To stand in front of it, and feel the energy from 2,500 years of souls passing though it is indescribable.

Athens - Day 1

WE MADE IT! We arrived at our hotel a few hours before sunrise, accompanied by our new friend 'Zeus', a street dog that followed us from the bus stop to the front door of our hotel with an empty plastic Coke bottle in his mouth the whole way. He lay by the front door of the hotel until he figured out we were there to stay. He was so cute we were sad to see him go! We still had 7 hours before check-in and we think he was wanting to give us a tour.

We watched the sunrise from the rooftop deck looking up at the Acropolis and Parthenon. Truly unbelieveable, one of those sights that you just think you will never see. We were so fired up we decided we would try to see every sight in Greece in the next few hours! But the receptionist at the hotel allowed us to check into the room early, which meant the first bed we had seen in two days. Steve got his way and a five hour nap!

We headed out for either breakfast, lunch or dinner, we were not sure which one due to the 10 hour time difference. Lunch won out, we had unbelievably good crepes with cheese, chicken and ham. Note: 'Greek' coffee is basically a double espresso that nearly made us scale the Acropolis!

We walked for the next few hours, discovering the Plaka and Anafiotika neighborhoods packed with shops, bars, restaurants and random 2500 year old ruins. Amazing to walk in the footsteps and creations of such an ancient civilization.

One of the first things that we noticed is that there are not many American tourists, and most of the people that are packing the squares and markets seem to be locals. Life is lived in the streets with neighbors, family and friends - eating, drinking, smoking and laughing. We joked that they all must have TIVO since it seemed no one was home watching TV. We think their culture may be a little different than ours (and Steve thinks they just don't understand that the Red Sox season has started and they need him to watch to win!).

It's impossible to describe the smells of fresh food in the air, the passion of conversations among the Greeks, the ringing of the church bells on the hour, the sight of Cypress trees amongst the ruins - you just have to experience it for yourself.

It's 11:30 pm, and we now think it may be dinner time? It seems to be the time everyone else is eating dinner, so what better excuse other than to blend in and become a local. Becky is planning on a nutello crepe at some point tonight, and there will probably be some ouzo in Steve's near future.

Thanks to those that have left comments, it's fun to see and thank you for the well wishes - we'll update as we can - off to dinner!